Time for a deep dive into the cutting-edge hair treatments of South Korea and the culture of beauty fueling them.
K-Pop, Demon Hunters…South Korea has become a master of aesthetics. Do they know something about hair we don’t? Image by Freepik.
You’ve likely seen South Korea in the news (https://share.google/CXBgAHTJxWCj7KF3K) — if not for K-Pop (the music or Demon Hunter variety), then for their otherworldly beauty esthetics and cult cosmetic products that have taken the world by storm.
There is no doubt about it: South Korea is at the forefront of beauty innovations. Sun protection, cutting-edge skincare, nutraceuticals, chemical hair treatments, spa culture… Even cosmetic plastic surgery is more widely accepted, pursued, and discussed.
Do They Know Something About Hair We Don't?
South Korea’s President, Lee Jae Myung, recently said that hair loss was a “matter of survival” (https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c773mnpre07o) and he’s called for treatments to be covered nationally. He has a point, especially when you take into consideration the cultural context. There’s a profound emotional toll that comes with any change in our bodies that falls outside our control, even when you embrace it. For example, someone might wear a buzz cut for years and never think of their hair — that is, until it’s no longer their choice.
Much of our sense of self comes from our hair: the texture, colour, wave patterns, and styles. Losing that outlet of personal style and expression is not the end of the world — we’re so much more than our hair — but particularly in the moment of hair loss, it can feel like everything.
In South Korea, Looks Matter
Innovation doesn’t happen in a vacuum.
In many ways, South Korea is suffering from an epidemic of ‘lookism’. It’s the darker side to the coin of how and why plastic surgery became so widely adopted over the past few decades. Many people in South Korea (including hiring departments) feel that attractiveness matters. They want the best-looking people working at their companies. So, to people who are otherwise qualified? A surgery conceivably could make the difference between getting the job of their dream and not. What if the only thing seemingly standing in the way of you and your career goals was your jawline? Many young Koreans (and their parents) face those kinds of questions every day. Plastic surgery for things like graduation has become… well, normal.
There’s a dystopian bent to it all, along with some very nuanced cultural and ethical questions. Even K-Pop stars, expected to maintain a standardised and perfected appearance as part of their art, have discussed post-career the incredible mental toll those expectations can take.
South Korea is excelling in the entertainment and beauty space. How much of that is really a result of their pursuit of personal perfection, and what is the cost?
The Business of Thinning Strands
By 2030, the amount spent globally on products targeting thinning hair is expected to reach 2.75 billion. That’s almost double what it is now.
Innovative ingredients, high tech research facilities, quick to market formulas…hair is important to Koreans and they’re backing it with investment dollars. Image by Freepik.
A full head of hair is a hallmark of beauty in South Korea and, as an extension, success. Already ahead on the cosmetic formulation front from loosened regulatory barriers that date back to the Asian financial crisis of 1997 and accelerated in 2016, South Korea has lost no time applying their expertise to developing new hair loss treatments.
To put it bluntly, their system favors streamlined innovation and quicker to market formulations than ours. As an example, Canada, Europe, Australia, Japan, and South Korea all use more effective and gentler next generation sun filters while we haven’t approved a new sunscreen active since Parasol 1789 in 1997. That protective barrier of the FDA is arguably doing us harm.
On the other hand, there’s a trade-off in pushing products to market too quickly. History is rife with seemingly harmless chemical formulations that should have undergone more stringent testing. The FDA’s stringent rules protect us from that.
Neither system is better, but we need to acknowledge they’re different.
With that said, here are four hair loss treatments South Korea is banking on.
Gene silencing (CosmeRNA)
A treatment from Korean company CosmeRNA aims to use the silencing power of RNA to target one of the genes responsible for androgenetic hair loss right at the hair follicle: the androgen receptor.
It’s a great idea.
Most modern hair loss therapies block the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This strategy targets the receptor DHT binds too instead. It’s elegant.
CosmeRNA claims that users see an 86% improvement in their hair density after 16 weeks (4 months) but like any new treatment, there’s some important fine print. CosmeRNA is only appropriate as an early-stage treatment; it’s not intended as an alternative to finasteride — think support, not therapy.
It’s also very new. Do receptors eventually stop responding to interfering RNA? Is there another side effect we’re not yet aware of? Without decades of user data, we can only make an educated guess.
Exosomes: Powerful Messengers
Exosomes and stem cell reactivation are cool, ambitious, and also poorly regulated. Image by Freepik.
I’ve talked about exosomes before. They’re powerful nano-sized vesicles (messenger bubbles) released by cells that deliver growth factors and other signals to neighbouring cells. They show a great deal of promise for stimulating hair follicle growth as well as decreasing inflammation.
Typically, exosomes are applied during a microneedling session or injected (injection directly into the scalp is not FDA approved). And though these powerful extracellular signalling vesicles are available stateside (we offer them in conjunction with microneedling), they’ve taken off in South Korea.
Exosomes for hair treatments are typically stem cell derived, so they need to come from a cultured source. Because of the newness, it’s not yet a well-regulated industry and poor quality or even contamination is possible. And, like the newer PRF treatments, there’s a lot of variation in protocols as people try to figure out what works best and most consistently.
It’s yet another treatment that falls under the stimulation umbrella. Stimulation is great but there’s only so much ‘grow now!’ signaling a hair follicle can take. It’s not a replacement for medical hair loss therapy and works best in conjunction with other treatments.
Reactivating Stem Cells
Speaking of stem cells… reactivating hair follicle stem cells is becoming the new holy grail of hair loss therapy. Biologically, it’s both ambitious and feasible.
Stem cells are harvested from patient’s hair, blood, or fat then processed for a treatment (like ACORN serotomes which we offer) or reintroduced at the hair follicle as a ‘stem cell transplant’; where healthy follicle ‘control centers’ (dermal papilla) are transplanted into the follicles of weaker, thinner hairs.
Stem cell technology is undoubtedly cool, and like exosomes, it has a lot of potential. The personalized approach of using your ‘own cells’ to address hair loss also really appeals to people on a concept level. However, even in Korea these treatments are niche. They’re expensive and stem cell storage and culture are significant technical hurdles. That makes it exciting but not practical in most cases. Remember that as with all stimulatory treatments (including minoxidil) if the underlying causes of hair loss aren’t addressed, it will progress.
Needle-Free Microneedling
Those who’ve been eyeing microneedling but are apprehensive of needles, take note. Another intriguing trend out of Korea is swapping jet powered systems (CureJet) for a needle-free experience.
The good news is that this technology is already being used to deliver cosmetic ingredients deeper into the skin. On the hair front, however, it requires more research to see if the results really are comparable. There’s also the potential for pushing other things deeper into the skin, such as bacteria, so sterilization is still important.
Is Korea Really Different?
The good news is there’s nothing really new being used in Korean clinics that we don’t already have a version of stateside (PRP, microneedling, medical therapy, exosomes). Though a few procedures are employing cutting-edge science (we’ll be watching), there’s nothing yet that should have you booking a flight to Seoul.
If you’re looking to support your hair closer to home, consider adding the Feel Confident (https://feelconfident.com/collections/hair) haircare regimen to your routine. Research backed with clinical studies and packed with ingredients like caffeine, saw palmetto, pumpkin seed oil, and curcumin, Feel Confident really can make a difference in the look and feel of your hair.
